Matsugae

Just steps from Arashiyama's Togetsukyo Bridge, Matsugae occupies a tastefully converted Meiji-era residence that once belonged to the painter Manshu Kawamura. Artists and connoisseurs, including Kitaoji Rosanjin, once gathered in these refined quarters. Today, the kitchen prepares Kyoto cuisine spotlighting two distinct varieties of house tofu: a nutty buckwheat tofu crafted from domestic soybeans, and a vibrant green tofu infused with Uji matcha. The visual contrast between pale white and deep green is striking, with each serving releasing a gentle sweetness and subtle aroma on the palate.

Guests can order their tofu served warm as classic yudofu simmered in broth, or chilled in a traditional cedar bucket (teoke dofu). Multi-course lunch selections such as the "Miyabi" and "Matsugae" present this tofu alongside three Kyoto-style obanzai side dishes, tender hirousu tofu fritters, and a crisp seasonal tempura assortment. Diners looking to experience yuba (tofu skin) in depth gravitate toward the "Kyo no Yuba Zukushi" course, which features fresh pulled yuba, seared yuba with duck in a savoury thickened broth, and crisp yuba-wrapped tempura. House pickles fermented with buckwheat koji and small seasonal bites lend bright, refreshing counterpoints throughout.

To conclude the meal, each set includes a substantial grain or noodle course, such as rice cloaked in a dashi-rich yuba glaze, tempura donburi, rice topped with simmered sweet-and-savoury herring, or warm nyumen noodles with sea bream and yuba. After the meal, the dessert list highlights roasted buckwheat tea, featuring a rolled sponge cake filled with aromatic buckwheat tea cream and a cheesecake dusted with finely ground tea powder.

Gazing out at the manicured Japanese garden through the dining room windows offers a peaceful respite during a day of exploring Arashiyama. Because wait times can stretch long around the midday peak, reserving a table ahead of time is wise if you are working around a fixed sightseeing itinerary.